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Ingredient dictionary

60 ingredients — graded on proof, not hype. Search or browse by function.

Brightening & dark spots

The PIH & dullness toolkit — from gold-standard actives to gentler botanicals.

NiacinamideMultitasker: fades dark spots & PIH, regulates oil, strengthens barrier. Meaningful at 2–5%; 10%+ is high-dose.
Strong113 products
Tranexamic acidBrightening active with good data on stubborn dark patches and PIH — pairs well with niacinamide.
Strong5 products
Vitamin CAntioxidant brightener. Pure L-AA is most potent but unstable; derivatives (ethyl ascorbic, ascorbyl glucoside) are gentler, slower.
Strong55 products
Alpha-arbutinGentle tyrosinase-inhibiting brightener for dark spots — slower than hydroquinone, far kinder.
Moderate5 products
Kojic acidFerment-derived brightener with solid data on melasma and PIH; often paired with niacinamide or arbutin.
Moderate3 products
Azelaic acidUnderrated multitasker with strong data for rosacea-prone redness, acne and PIH — one of the few actives safe in pregnancy (confirm with your doctor).
Strong3 products
GlutathioneAntioxidant marketed for 'tone-up' brightening; topical penetration data is limited — judge by the full formula.
Emerging9 products
Licorice rootBrightening + soothing botanical — a staple supporting player in dark-spot formulas.
Moderate17 products
TurmericAnti-inflammatory antioxidant spice extract — brightening supporting act, often with kojic acid.
Emerging3 products
Yuja (citrus)Vitamin-C-rich Korean citrus for glow — bright, fresh, mild.
Emerging11 products

Retinoids & anti-aging

Turnover, firmness and lines — evidence-ranked, pregnancy flags included.

Retinal (retinaldehyde)A step stronger than retinol, gentler than prescription — collagen & turnover for lines and firmness.
Strong7 products
RetinolThe reference anti-aging active: decades of data on lines, texture and tone. Slower but better tolerated than retinal.
Strong22 products
BakuchiolPlant-derived retinol alternative with modest comparative data — for retinoid-averse or pregnancy-cautious users (confirm with your doctor).
Emerging8 products
AdenosineKorea's official anti-wrinkle functional ingredient (MFDS-listed) — mild, stable firming support in countless K formulas.
Moderate10 products
PeptidesSignal molecules with growing data for firmness support.
Moderate39 products
Copper peptidesRepair-signaling peptide with dedicated fans for post-active recovery and firmness; data still building.
Emerging
Hydrolyzed collagenTopically a film-forming humectant (it doesn't rebuild your collagen) — real overnight plumping effect, temporary mechanism.
Moderate60 products
IdebenonePotent lab-made antioxidant (CoQ10 relative) — premium anti-aging positioning with modest clinical support.
Emerging1 products
CaffeineVasoconstricting antioxidant — the best-supported ingredient for puffy eyes; modest on dark circles.
Moderate3 products
GinsengAntioxidant hanbang root with circulation & firmness benefits.
Moderate11 products

Exfoliating acids

From strongest to gentlest: AHA → BHA → LHA → PHA → mandelic → urea.

AHA (glycolic/lactic)Surface exfoliation for glow and texture; start 2–3×/week.
Strong34 products
BHA (salicylic)Oil-soluble exfoliant that clears inside the pore.
Strong41 products
LHA (capryloyl salicylic acid)Lipophilic BHA derivative that exfoliates even more gradually — pore care for reactive skin.
Moderate2 products
PHA (gluconolactone)The gentlest exfoliating acid family — larger molecules, slower penetration, humectant bonus. Best first acid for sensitive skin.
Moderate18 products
Mandelic acidLarge-molecule AHA that exfoliates gently and has data for PIH on deeper skin tones — the tone-safe acid.
Moderate1 products
UreaAt low % a humectant, at 10%+ a keratolytic softener — the fix for rough, flaky, keratosis-prone patches.
Strong

Soothers & barrier repair

The calm-down aisle — Korea's specialty.

Centella (cica)Calms redness and supports barrier repair; the go-to for irritated or post-active skin.
Strong136 products
HeartleafSoothing, antioxidant herb — Korea's favorite for hot, flushed, breakout-prone skin.
Moderate28 products
MugwortCalming hanbang herb for reactive, stressed skin.
Moderate18 products
Panthenol (B5)Soothing humectant that speeds barrier recovery.
Strong88 products
AllantoinClassic comfrey-derived soother that softens and calms — quiet workhorse in gentle formulas.
Moderate3 products
Beta-glucanOat/mushroom-derived humectant and soother, often outperforming HA for comfort on reactive skin.
Moderate7 products
CeramidesThe lipids your barrier is made of — the fix for tight, cracked, eczema-prone skin.
Strong71 products
Oat (colloidal oatmeal)FDA-monograph skin protectant — itch and irritation relief for eczema-prone skin.
Strong2 products
Aloe veraLight hydrating soother for sun-stressed, hot skin; more comfort than cure.
Moderate14 products
EctoinExtremophile-derived 'stress-protection' molecule with growing data for barrier defense and soothing.
Emerging
Zinc PCASebum-regulating mineral salt — supporting act in oily-skin and scalp formulas.
Moderate4 products
Tea treeAntibacterial essential oil with real acne data at ~5% — effective but a known sensitizer.
Moderate30 products
Mung beanGentle cleansing-friendly botanical used to keep low-pH cleansers soft on the barrier.
Emerging5 products

Hydrators & emollients

Water in, water held, water sealed.

Hyaluronic acidHumectant that binds water; multi-weight versions hydrate at different depths.
Strong113 products
Polyglutamic acidFermented humectant that holds more surface water than HA — glass-skin finish layer.
Moderate
GlycerinThe most proven humectant in skincare, period. Boring, cheap, essential.
Strong10 products
BetaineSugar-beet humectant that hydrates without stickiness and buffers irritation in actives formulas.
Moderate11 products
SqualaneSkin-identical lightweight emollient — non-greasy moisture that almost no skin type rejects.
Strong19 products
Snow mushroomMushroom-derived humectant with an HA-like feel but lighter finish.
Emerging1 products
Vitamin EAntioxidant emollient that stabilizes vitamin C and supports the moisture barrier.
Strong12 products
Shea butterRich occlusive-emollient for genuinely dry, cracked skin.
Strong10 products
Birch sapLight hydrating plant water rich in minerals — Korea's moisture-sunscreen signature.
Moderate8 products

Ferments & K-signatures

The ingredients that made K-beauty K-beauty — snail to rice to PDRN.

Snail mucinHydrating, repair-supporting glycoprotein mix — the texture-plumping K-beauty classic.
Moderate18 products
Rice extractSoftening, brightening ferment-friendly extract; a hanbang staple for glow.
Moderate55 products
PropolisBee-derived soother with antibacterial and glow benefits — great for acne-prone dullness.
Moderate20 products
Honey / royal jellyHumectant with mild antibacterial action and a glow finish — propolis's gentler sibling.
Moderate16 products
Galactomyces fermentYeast ferment for glow and tone-evening — the 'first essence' backbone.
Moderate18 products
Bifida fermentProbiotic-derived ferment with barrier-support and resilience positioning; moderate supporting data.
Moderate18 products
Probiotics / fermentsFermented extracts positioned for microbiome balance — mostly soothing-humectant benefits in practice.
Emerging16 products
Fermented soybeanNutrient ferment for softness and glow — the gommage-essence hero.
Emerging4 products
Green teaAntioxidant with oil-calming, soothing benefits — a classic for oily, stressed skin.
Moderate35 products
PDRN (salmon DNA)Korea's 2026 ingredient of the year. Topical evidence is emerging: hydration & glow data are solid, deeper 'regeneration' claims are early.
Emerging23 products
Exosomes2025–26 clinic-trend ingredient (cell-derived vesicles). Topical cosmetic evidence is very early — treat claims skeptically.
Emerging5 products
ColostrumMilk-derived trend ingredient rich in proteins; hydration and comfort are plausible, deeper claims unproven.
Emerging

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Ingredient imagery: Wikimedia Commons (public domain / CC — per-image credits on each ingredient page).